Zelma’s Trip

Even when we crossed the border there was a different feel to Laos than there was to Vietnam. The temperature was different with the heat feeling very dry rather than humid. I have actually managed to come here at the hottest time of year with my guidebook stating that average maximum daily temperature in Vientiane, Laos is 34 degrees C!

The journey from the border crossing to Vietniane was spectacular with large green mountains and views over rivers. At one point the bus went over a rickety old bridge over a river that I’m not entirely sure I would have been happy even walking over! When we arrived in Vientiane I actually double checked in my guidebook that the place was the capital as it was so empty. I then thought it must be a Public holiday but it transpired that this was what it was always like. The pace of life here is very different to that in Vietnam. I did come from Hanoi so this was probably even more extreme but the difference was very noticeable very quickly.

Vientiane itself was lovely. It had an almost French feel in part with the layout apparently having been designed by the French. On the Saturday I explored a bit further and decided to take a tuk tuk (basically a motorbike converted at the back to hold up to five passengers – think almost like a rickshaw) to Buddha Park. In hindsight this possibly wasn’t the best form of transport to take as the roads, particularly the dirt track close to the park were horrendously bumpy. Think of a rickety old rollercoaster that you get off with bruises all over yourself. On the way back the tuk-tuk got stuck and I had to get out and push with a few friendly locals.

Buddha Park (oe Xiang Khouan) is 27km down the Mekong River from Vientiane and is a collection of massive ferro-concrete sculptures dotted around a riverside meadow. Apparently they were created under the direction of Luang Phu Boonlua Surirat (wow that rolls of the tongue, another one to add to my childrens’ names wish list!). He was a self-styled holy man who is said to have claimed to be the disciple of a cave-dwelling Hindu hermit in Vietnam. The "Rough Guide" states that when he returned to Laos he began the sculpture garden in the late 50s as a means of spreading his philiosophy of life and ideas about the cosmos. Oh my God, he must have had some weird old ideas, you should have seen this place! The guide goes on to state that he was forced to flee the country across the Mekong to Thailand after the revolution where he established an "even more elaborate version of his philosophy". I am SOOO there!

The park was quite bizarre, particulalry the globular sculpture which you entered through the mouth and climbed stairs inside to various levels and the roof. Health and Safety would have had a field day, particularly at the very top where a very pretty but minute concrete edging protected you from a very long fall.

After visiting the park I was given my first drink in a bag. They fill the bag with ice, pour the chosen drink in and give you a straw. It was very refreshing but I did keep thinking that at any point I would get the goldfish! It was actually very effective in the bumpy tuk-tuk in terms of not spilling. There’s a hint for you all for long journeys ;o)

When I got back to Vientiane, Kingsley had been out playing Aussie rules football with a group of Australians on tour. We ended up joining them for drinks that evening.  Having spent the previous night in a budget room with a fan but no windows and hardly having slept I decided to splurge a little with my budget and booked a Junior suite in the Lane Xang Hotel, a classy 50sa style place which used to be the premier hotel in Vientiane.  I am half working on having a very low budget but then spending one night a month somewhere extravagant.  In all fairness it was twenty five quid and had a separate bedroom, living area, bathroom, dual aspect balconies, river view, free fruit and water, swimming pool, gym etc.  Okay maybe there’s some self-justification here and I’m going to stop now as it’s making me salivate.  The problem with this plan is it then makes your next nights accommodation seem really shitty!