Zelma’s Trip

I was dropped off at a guest house in Mae Hong Son by the lake and was pleased that there was a young litter of kittens.  I was pretty tired after the rafting and having had a brief look around, bought some food and showered, had an early night.

The following day I looked around the town properly and then hired a car and driver to take me around the surrounding area.  We went to Pha Sua Falls, a truly beautiful waterfall and also to a fish cave, which, as the name suggests was an area with lots of huge carp which also gathered in a cave.  My guide (who was called Mr Wallop which tickled me) had very good local knowledge and spoke good English.  He showed me a couple of minority villages in the countryside which was nice as I am so not into the whole human zoo tour where they roll out one woman (probably on their books) who sings at you and does a dance (or something).  He also took me to two eco-projects where locals were being taught farming techniques and crops to grow to sell and support themselves.  The area I am in used to be responsible for a huge amount of the opium market and since the Thai government have cracked down on this, many of the locals no longer had an income or means to support themselves.  These projects have been set up to help the locals with them now growing cash-crops like coffee, ferns and flowers for buinesses and organic fruit and vegetables for themselves.  Mr Wallop (tee-hee) then took me to some natural hot springs.  I touched the 70 degrees C water (which also smelled of egg) and had a natural mud face mask.  The latter wasn’t quite so eggy fortunately.  Amongst the countryside was an area known as “little Switzerland” with an area including a huge, stunning lake.  There were bungalows at the lakeside and I couldn’t help thinking what a cool place it would be to stay with either a loved one or a big group of mates.  At this point we were apparently only fifteen minutes walk from the Burmese border however due to rebel factions (and the rest) it was not recommended to try and cross the border in this fashion!

Finally I was taken to the tower at the top on Mae Hong Son which had amazing views down across the town.  Throughout the day there were spells of very heavy rain.  At one point we were going up a steep mountain path and the car began to lose grip.  As we were rolling backwards my guide was telling me that it was okay.  I was wondering how well he actually understood the words “We’ll be okay” as we got closer and closer to the edge of the mountain.  I asked if I should get out and he said I shouldn’t.  Eventually, of course, it was okay, we just went another way and came back to that point later.

Mr Wallop was actually pretty cool (although you’d kind of have to be with a name like that right?) and we had some interesting discussions throughout the day.  One of these was about Buddhism and my guide told me that he had spent two years as a monk.  He said that they had two meals a day, breakfast and lunch and that you would eat what you were given and be grateful for it.  He stated that this meant that you always appreciated food.  He also said that when he woke up there was a moment of reflection to remind yourself that even if today you see something bad then you know that this will be balanced.  He talked a lot about patience and the need to wait for things and be aware that they will arrive eventually, rather than an attitude of wanting everything now.  Mr Wallop told me that his son (eight years old) had just been to monk training school (I know, I’m sure it’s not called that either) and that one of the questions the mother’s family ask here about their future son-in-law is whether he has studied as a monk.  Mr Wallop emphasised the importance of this and stated that many village marriages split up if the man is not familiar in the ways of the monkhood.  When asked why this was he informed me that living as a monk shows you what is important in life and how to live properly as well as respecting other people.  He said that without this people looked for the wrong things and did not treat their wives properly.  Mr Wallop spoke of those who left the villages and sought money and wealth in the towns.  He said that those who returned with wealth often caused jealously but were not truly happy as what they had gone to do was not an end in itself and they were frustrated that what they thought would make them happy had not.  I liked Mr Wallop a great deal, I thought he was a wise man.  He also conceded that you could be educated, well-off and happy, as long as you recognised that wealth and possessions were not the sole route to happiness.

In the evening I went to get some food in Mae Hong Son and got talking to an Irish guy called Andy who was on a motorbike tour of the country.  He was traveling with Jonny, his friend from home, and his guide whose name eludes me.  I went to the upstairs of the bar with them and played jenga with them and a group of three Americans who were out here working for three months.  When the bar closed we headed for a Thai bar in town with amusing locals who chatted me up and danced funnily.  Andy managed to tip half a pint of Chang beer all over my lap which was lovely.  Afterwards myself and one of the American guys (and the Irish guys and guide of course) headed back to where the Irish guys were staying and had a few more drinks whilst listening to music.

The following day can possibly be described as somewhat unproductive.  I explored the town a bit more, got my laundry done, went to the market and did a bit of shopping.  I also made inquiries about buses and was informed that the bus to Bangkok was seventeen hours – joy. 

Today I got up, showered, booked my ticket and checked out.  I’m now trying to kill time prior to being picked up by a local tuk-tuk driver to take me to the bus station.  I’ve been eaten alive in this internet cafe….grrrrr.  Bring on seventeen hours in a bus!!