Zelma’s Trip

On Friday I spent a bit of time emailing and charging my Ipod in an internet cafe.  I was planning to head to Nah Trang but then discovered the buses left at 8am (which I had just missed) and 8pm.  I didn’t really want to stay in Saigon for another full day and had a look in my guide book.  When Nah Trang was described it was noted that Mui Ne had a much nicer beach and was quiter.  So I decided that this seemed like a good option and got the bus in the afternoon.  The journey between Saigon and Mui Ne (pronounced Moo Nay) took just over five hours but it was interesting to see the places mbetween the two.  I arrived in Mui Ne when it was dark.  When we got out of the bus we were immediately surrounded by people offering us lifts on their Honda Oms (scooters which they drive and you sit on the back).  I asked how far away one of the hotels in my guidebook was and one of them started laughing.  I thought I might have said something stupid, at which point he pointed over his shoulder to the hotel and I realised I had!  I went and looked in the hotel and the room was pretty boring and small so I decided to try a place called Hai Yen which was recommended by the proprietor of my last hotel in Saigon.  I decided to brave a Honda om which was an experience.  He rode off very fast so I asked him to slow down.  The problem was that when I asked him he turned round and started to veer towards the pavement or other vehicles so I soon decided it wasn’t a good idea and shut up.  When I got to the guesthouse it seemed pleasant and I was shown my room which was lovely.  It was very large with a double bed with mosquito net (which I always think makes rooms look slightly magical) and ensuite wet room.  In terms of another plug, as I said the place is called Hai Yen and is at 132 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, tel 062847243.  I really should start charging commission! 

When I woke up I walked out onto the balcony and realised I was right next to the sea.  The previous night I wasn’t quite sure where the beach was and was overjoyed that it was on my doorstep.  I have some lovely photos from in and around the guesthouse which I’ll post as soon as possible.  The room cost me $14 a night and was definitely worth it.  There was also a restaurant on site which was excellent and served very modestly priced fare. 

After getting over the shock of the dream location, I went down to the beach, read my book and swam in the sea.  The beach was really sandy which went out as far as you could stand up.  The only thing that was slightly strange was that there was very little distinction between high and low tide and the beach was quite narrow.

In the afternoon I decided to take a walk to the centre.  After quite a trek I realised that Mui Ne does not have a centre and that the only way to access the beach is through various hotels.  I wandered back and later realised that, despite having applied suncream (evidently rather pathetically) I was really sunburnt.

In the evening I decided to go for another swim in the sea which was lovely.  I then watched the sunset which was stunning (see pics). 

When I ate my dinner a German guy called Alex sat at my table and introduced himself.  I had passed a sign at the “Wax bar” for a party that evening and we decided to go.  It was a full moon party with a beach fire.  Although it was a good evening there were a few less welcome parts such as some eejits deciding to supplement the fire with one of the hotel signs.  I had a rant at this point about not wanting to be associated with such people and the fact that it’s easy to see why Westerners often have a bad reputation.  The music improved later into the night/ morning although the sound system with terrible bass and woofers and the D.J’s ability did not.  The whole thing felt slightly forced in a way but it was an enjoyable nioght.  On the way back we stopped at a little side shop as Alex appeared to have a bottomless pit for a stomach and he had some local food (one of the traditional staples a kind of soup).  Once again some Westerners excelled themselves by coming in and asking for a menu.  If you saw this place you’d understand how stupid that was.  It was effectively someone’s house with three pots of different soup on offer.  When he was informed there was not a menu he went and picked a pineapple up and made a slicing action.  The locals didn’t (or rather chose not to) understand him at which point the group decided to buy a bottle of wine and sit and talk VERY LOUDLY to each other.  When we got back I was very grateful that my bed was waiting for me.